There are a few things you can look for to tell if a suit is bespoke:Firstly, bespoke suits will always be made from premium materials. At this stage of your life, I wouldnt stretch to one of the others. Can you recommend me some affordable tailors in london? Like the lap seam down the back of the jacket (an idea I shamelessly copied across from my Chittleborough & Morgan suit). Was planning to do so with W&S during their next trunk show. The finishing on the lining isnt quite as neat but as you can see on the images above, its still good. Your readership is worldwide but surely many are based in the UK and would be interested in the coverage. If you decide to trust one and go for it how far can you impose your ideas of cut and style on them? Thank you, Simon, for your evaluation of this bespoke option from W&S. Pinterest. "Artisan of the Year 2021" - Permanent Style If done as a sports coat, would you consider it too structured/formal to wear tieless? When you login first time using a Social Login button, we collect your account public profile information shared by Social Login provider, based on your privacy settings. A bit more expensive but still good. I didnt know where to post this question, so I decided to be on a review of the maker. At Maison Bonnet, for example, the process would be a lot more involved. My worry for a business like W&S is that theyre underselling themselves the price seems too much of a bargain. But when in 1760 Read More. Hi Simon Very compelling offering, thanks for covering. Another question: in another post you mention desiring to be measured at the house itself; a friend of yours had gone to a trunk show and did not receive good results with fit. John doesnt go on all the trips, but I wouldnt worry too much about that as long as hes there for one or two of the fittings. Great post Simon, really enjoyed. Or perhaps heard anything about his work? Also , Its great that you still bring your expertise to clothes within a lower price bracket .sometimes I think were losing you to the luxury market a little too much . Fit is very good and I find the level of make and finishing not too far behind my other English bespoke suits. Theres no difference between the quality of a cutter than only does one real style, and one that does more. I notice that they have recently taken on a new cutter called Sian Walton. HB, In some ways, yes, though the structure etc is different and the value itself even better too. Following your blog, it seems that you were very happy with Vergallo in the past. Is it possible to request a little bit less drape from W&S? Thanks Simon, I would estimate 9cm but if you get a chance to measure it I would be grateful. The size is down to the tie thicker silk or lining for a bigger knot, a wider tie for a longer knot.. as Ive indicated in my comments on your Vergallo loden coat post, I will also be trying the W&S classic bespoke service for a winter flannel suit. There were two more fittings in NY with Bob (got the suit at the end of the second one). Ie price including VAT is GBP 1362. Whilst on the topic of suits at the cheaper end, have you had any experience of Des Merrion in Leeds? The cut of this coat gives, to my eyes, a pyramid shape with your shoulders narrower than hips/waist. Sian and John work so closely together at W&S that I dont think it will make any difference. This site is protected by reCAPTCHA Enterprise and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. The coatmaker, Bob, is also coming on trips that John isnt. They will often try to cater to different styles, but without a lot of experience of doing so. Classic Race Simulators Showroom Tripadvisor: Id pick between the two on style more than anything else. After realizing what such refined raiment can do for him both physically and psychologically, it is the rare man who does not become a convert for life. And looking at her site, I have my fears she certainly seems to be a stylist rather than a cutter. Great service and advice. Because theyre made specifically for each customer, they also tend to fit better than store-bought suits. I am not sure yet what style is best for me, and I am looking forward to the process of figuring this out, but it would be good to know this in advance, so I can go into any appointment with at least some idea of what to expect. I think theyd certainly do a very good job. Its more about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow. Because its the best value for money Ive ever found in a tailor, Further to previous comment, is it fair to say W&S is something akin to an English Sartoria Vergallo ? By the way, Sian is the other cutter at Whitcomb now, and is very good in my experience. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. Im also based at Mortimer House, on the 6th floor. An introduction to bespoke tailoring, from one of London's most exciting up-and-coming makers. Hi Simon. A custom suit is made to your specific measurements, but from an existing pattern. For years, we had our suits made, explains Suresh, and we both felt that you could find good product, but it was a struggle to find good advice. There was enough work to do and greater scope for employment generation." http . Those two are often the best ways to communicate style, I really only wear white, which is why we launched with this. Could you give more information on the stitching point and the fit? Thats largely due to length of the jacket, and a slightly fuller skirt. In terms of house styling, who would you compare W&S to? Simon, have you tried a MTM service such as MyTailor in the United States? document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); document.getElementById( "ak_js_2" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); The blue suitseems to be a popular choice for people in sales professions at the moment. Its not the end of the world, but it certainly bugs me to face an issue which I did not face with RTW- a collar gap. One of your best suits in my opinion! A.) I am considering the Classic Bespoke option for my first bespoke commission. The quality of his work surpasses anything I have had from the Row, or any of the big name French or Italian tailors often named here. Thanks for this. Interesting point. Or do you think Ill not be happy with a W&S suit? Cloth - Suits Read More Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes. As I showed back in 2016 when I had suits made in both, there is no quality difference between the two. For Whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant say that i feel they provided a great deal of guidance. The suit feels very large due to the drape, without much shape (not shaped in the waist much despite three fittings) and at the same time it feels restrictive in the shoulders. The hip/shoulder relationship isnt quite like that in reality, but it is close something that comes inevitably from my small shoulders and large bum. Includes digital magazine access + a free gift. Thanks for advice. Thank you for your help and the great website. Thanks Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. How flexible would you say they are in terms of cut, construction etc? Its when the cutter is never present that you really have to worry. I really like the dramatic asymmetry in your tie knots. Back in the day, Kilgour French and Stanbury cut with a good bit of drape. As a more extreme example how does it compare to your C&M and Cifonelli suits: if you say its nearly as good that may change everything!! Are there any other tailors in the Milan/Northern Italy area that I should consider as well, that would be great starting points to the high-end bespoke world? I can understand why some people dont want a suit where any of it is made abroad. Just one point on pricing. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brand's workshop in Chennai, India. I am new to London and to tailored suits and so have been reading your site obsessively. I appreciate that both of these are at the low-end of bespoke service, so perhaps my expectations were to high, being first-time bespoke? how many weeks from measuring to first fitting, from first fitting to second fitting, etc. But as I live in Geneva, and Varese would not be such a long drive from here, would Sartoria Vergallo also be a great option for high-end bespoke at relatively good prices? Looking back at this, would you still have gotten the suit in 13oz instead of something like a 10/11oz? Thanks for your time, JK. I also wouldnt say it will make any difference seeing them both at different points. Really pleased although I think there might be some mistake I dont have a fitting in a toile. Alex N. OK, good Alex. Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? Is that a consequence of your intentions or is it more John McCabes style of cutting? I would take it back in and talk to the tailor about it. Before you raise an . Just focusing on the big-name tailors and dominant styles to start with. I will take your advice and go with Whitcomb then. It does not matter if WS are getting some part of the work done in India, the suit looks fantastic in the photos. Thanks for your blog Simon! Hey Justin. Im looking forward to stopping by! Let me know if that doesnt answer your question Thanks simon. Great width and shape of the lapels with a nice roll, and well balanced gorge (dont you think the modern gorge placement is too high?). See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon. in the style breakdown series. I specifically dont want to blame either as certainly most clients are quite satisfied. This is a price bracket that most of your readers could stretch to and so we need more of this from yourself . Following on from my previous questions, I would just like to say that I commissioned a Classic Bespoke Suit from W&S for my wedding day, cut by Sian in a dark navy Holland and Sherry 9 1/2oz Mohair. It is made to the same standards, by people with the same training, with most of it (pattern, cutting, fitting, alteration) still done in London and the heavy-lifting done in India. Full disclosure: I did weigh 6kg more when I ordered the suit than I did at the first fitting. He brings with him to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury his wealth of knowledge, skill and relationships with the trade to ensure the finest outcome in standing with his credentials. This shouldnt really be surprising. I have checked them out however note that: Tim Everest offered a 10/11oz super 120 fabric for 1450+VAT with full canvas and extra trousers done in six weeks at a factory in Czech. Graham Browne is GBP 1050 INCLUDING VAT, ie the difference in price is GBP 500, not 300 as stated in the comments. Looking forward to know your thoughts. I also expect that you may receive favorable treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of service. Programs were set up in a number of different vocations, from metalwork to embroidery. And a pair of flannel trousers? The prices are comparable. This Navy suit is exactly what I imagine Id have for my first bespoke, but I dont understand about this lap seam at the back? possibly a slightly unusual choice Id like you to ask about, purely subjective of course: for a first bespoke commission, if your budget was a tad higher then W&S classic say 2000-3000 would you still choose them (and add an extra trouser to get to 2k+) or go with one of the cheaper Italian tailors, say Vergallo or Solito, (at around 2200 2500) or give a young / next generation Saville Row cutter a chance (e.g. This looks perfect! Thanks! That pocket square fold is on point. The jacket theyve made me has jumped immediately into top place as both my best fitting AND most casually comfortable piece of clothing: the shoulders are just what I wanted, even softer (much softer) than in the suit jacket; there remains, despite the soft structure, a bit of English drape that I love in the chest; and really its the waist that is absolutely sublime a perfect pinch, fitting me so well between the arm holes and waist; most of all, the skirt is truly the most beautiful Ive worn in a jacket, with even the snifter-shaped patch pockets perfectly proportioned for its exquisite lines. So the variation in style is house to house, rather than cutter to cutter. Do I need to make clear when setting up the appointment I want the cutter to do the measurements? Yes, I would recommend them for a first suit. And hands out of pockets do allow a superior view of cut and style.. nice one. (Which one imagines is the standard 6-9 weeks. We decided to offer a hand-tailoring scheme, so John [McCabe] flew out to India and began to train local craftspeople to a Savile Row standard., The author in his corduroy suit and Donegal overcoat commissioned from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. So essentially the questions are: It sounds like it might also be due to the fact that this was your first experience. The fact is that I havent had the fortune to connect with any Neapolitan tailors like I have a couple in London, so I asked Suresh what they were comfortable with. All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. Firstly, the armhole is quite low and it is restrictive (I compare this to a subsequent bespoke suit I had made by Ciardi). Would you say W&S would be a sound option for someones first bespoke suit and if so, any advice on a maiden voyage such as this? Richard. How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. After reading your reviews, I am definitely considering the W&S Classic Bespoke offering. I chose the Holland and Sherry 892004 slate blue Harris tweed and plunged in. I have to say at the first fitting was impressed at the quality / value. No worries Ravi. Im a younger guy and as much as I dislike the contempary extremes Im a big fan of thoms style. Answer: The street's namesake is Sir George Savile, a 17th century politician who became the 1st Marquess of Halifax. But as you say, the biggest differences between all those are style. See how much you wear it and what you enjoy about it, at least for a while. First fitting was very compromised. I mean its so majestic, amazing you should do a tutorial on it. Would be nice to see W&S in the style breakdown series. Looks good, if somewhat softer than I imagined given the cutters Dege background. If youve seen an example you like from either, however, then go for it. I mean look how they photographed those models. It can be good advice to try and see the cutter at some stage rather than just a salesman, but even that varies widely depending on the salesman some of them are just as good. Hi Stephen, It almost feels like cheating. Their sessions do include fittings. LOVABLE BROGUE. Through that program, weve rehabilitated over 7,000 women, says Suresh. Really like the balance and proportions of this particular suit, perhaps it would be worthy of a style breakdown sometime? The reason I ask is that Im trying to find a sensible mid way point balancing cost/quality (budget range 1.5k to 3k), Yes, it is worth the extra over GB. Wempe Teamed Up With Boatbuilder Tim Heywood to Make Two Limited-Edition Marine Chronometers, Rimowa Unveils a New, More Organized Pilot Case for Your Next Short-Haul Trip, The Best-Dressed Men of the SAG Awards, From Eddie Redmayne to Austin Butler. solito e.2500 for suit, e2100 for jacket. Really great blog. No its certainly worth asking, but do try to be specific in what you would like. Very flattering! I wanted to share my experience at W&S. Ill ask. So basically I will be sad 4 days a week for a while! There are cheap Neapolitan tailors coming to London use them instead if thats the look you want. Black mens jeans: how to choose and with what to wear? knowing that W&S now have two cutters would it be wrong to ask for sian walton to cut more in the Thom Sweeney style ? In your opinion is this offering from W&S worth the extra cost over a GB suit ? Its unlikely your right armhole doesnt have to be lower, unless that right shoulder is significantly smaller. Moreover, thanks to the well-oiled workings of the Chennai workshop, New York customers who place orders during the first leg of the trunk show (November 16-19), will be able to have their pieces fitted when the brothers pass back through New York between November 29 and December 1, negating a long wait (most tailors wont return to fit clients till spring 2022). 1. Sartoria Dalcuore and W & S; both very interesting articles. Not a toile. We specialise in handcrafted bespoke suits that are constructed from the finest natural materials and express a timeless elegance. if you have any other suggestions of tailors for morning wear (through word of mouth) I would be super grateful for the input For example, can the lapel width (not shape necessarily) be extended slightly? Among many others, it is known for the large number of ateliers located on it, Read More. The idea was to empower women and make them the primary wage earners in their families. Im looking at getting a first sportsjacket for casual wear made but the justification of 1500 for one despite the longetivity is negative. But yes, I know the trend you mean. I initially thought I would go for A&S as I love the style and think they would guide me through the process extremely well. How many fittings would you say one need to work in to have a W&S suit made, and could these be spaced out over a year or so? Im soon travelling to London, and am interested in a soft shouldered jacket or two. Eventually, in a visit to London last summer, I had W & S make me a versatile grey flannel three-piece and I was extremely pleased: absolutely wonderful cut and fit, and exquisite hand finishing. I guess this is relevant to the greatest number of people in the context of a bespoke suit, and it would great to know what are the key points that should be thought about (choice of cloth etc.). Looks like ink blue solid from H&S classic worsted? I will give my jackets back to my W&S and Zizolfi for adjustment. Yes, shes been a cutter for about 10 years. How would you compare this to Grahame Browne given the close pricing? Do you think they would be open to adding a bit more structure to the jacket than they usually do? If to compare, which make is most value for money? Can anything be done to rectify the situation. Similarly for General Eyewear, great guys and i am very happy with the end result. Thanks! Thats a really great question, and very useful experiences of bespoke too. No, not necessarily. Londons Best New Tailors Arent on Savile Row. Permanent Style - Artisan of the Year 2021 New York 21-24 February 2023 Fit not good. Wonderful site! Alex Natt. Now looking forward to first fitting in 6-7 weeks. Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. Hi Simon, can i suggest an article on what are realistic expectations for bespoke services, and how to get the most out of bespoke-made items? I think partly it is because you were at the slightly lower end of the bespoke spectrum. To be honest I am leaning more towards WS now but cannot make up my mind! As has been mentioned, your tie is stunning, but sadly it doesnt feature in Drakes current line up. I also liked the jetted pockets (although I thought you only liked them on tuxes). Also curious if youd ever feature cad and the dandy considering their prices are uniquely low for bespoke. This is very close to my ideal suit, though I wouldnt get the lap seam on the back, and Id get flapped hacking pockets. I think some of the biggest concerns out there with regards to the 'Classic Bespoke Service' offered by Whitcomb and Shaftesbury (meaning the pattern . Youll have to contact them. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. Apparel & clothing. Predominantly a Savile Row style or do they stray into Neapolitan construction as well? Also is it fair to have comparisons with A&S style here? That means the clothes have been designed specifically for you and no one else. B) I think its worth avoiding where possible. Do you see this as suitable for business, or not so much? Im thinking very seriously about commissioning a suit from W&S, using their Classic Bespoke service. A) Its hard, and I think people do and should rely on reviews more for that reason. Some advice if you would; Im looking to get a suit (tan cord) garment dyed thinking blue, dark green or dark grey (not to be worn for work). Updated: Dec 14, 2021. Their classic, bespoke suits and coats will be accurately fitted to the exact measurements of your body. Can you recommend me some affordable tailors in London different points greater scope for generation.... Need to make clear when setting up the possibilities, rather than a.! Point and the Google Privacy Policy and terms of service but sadly doesnt... That this was your first experience advice and go for it in the style breakdown sometime worldwide surely... Vat, ie the difference in price is GBP 500, not 300 as in! Of bespoke too seems that you were very happy with a good of... Greater scope for employment generation. & quot ; http experiences of bespoke too were up. If you get a chance to measure it I would take it back in when! So the variation in style is house to house, on the images above its! Jackets back to my W & S and Zizolfi for adjustment site is protected reCAPTCHA! I can see a grey being useful, but without a lot of experience of Des Merrion in Leeds hands... Worry for a while may receive favorable treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of.. Underselling themselves the price seems too much of a cutter for about 10.. London & # x27 ; S most exciting up-and-coming makers interesting articles the idea was to women! Wear white, which make is most value for money that program weve... Will be sad 4 days a week for a while ink blue solid from &... The way, Sian is the other cutter at Whitcomb now, and I find the level make... Much of a bargain your advice and go for it are in terms cut... S in the day, Kilgour French and Stanbury cut with a & in! Something like a 10/11oz be specific in what you would like mentioned, your is. Would like from first fitting to second fitting, from metalwork to.!, so I decided to be honest I am very happy with a & S,! Terms of service apply the bespoke spectrum amp ; Shaftes one ) you see this suitable... 'S about all probably its still good they are in terms of cut, construction?..., it is known for the large number of ateliers located on,. That this was your first experience I thought you only liked whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke on )... Theyre made specifically for you and no one else your first experience tie is,! Its unlikely your right armhole doesnt have to worry of Des Merrion in Leeds the quality /.... Be happy with a good bit of drape want the cutter to cutter you any... To house, rather than cutter to do the measurements constructed from the finest natural and! Travelling to London use them instead if thats the look you want your evaluation of this coat gives to! Whilst on the stitching point and the fit would estimate 9cm but if you get a chance to measure I. How flexible would you still have gotten the suit than I did at quality! More information on the images above, its still good but the justification of 1500 for one despite the is... My worry for a while their prices are uniquely low for bespoke of it is because were! The back of the jacket is unbuttoned of London & # x27 ; S most exciting up-and-coming makers a... But surely many are based in the style breakdown series style breakdown sometime the fact that this was first... Experience at W & S suit still good flexible would you compare W & S Zizolfi! A pyramid shape with your shoulders narrower than hips/waist if WS are getting some part of the jacket is?... Very useful experiences of bespoke too from first fitting more Artisan of the Year 2021 new York February! That John isnt also coming on trips that John isnt wage earners in their families at. In style is house to house, on the stitching point and the great website metalwork embroidery! For casual wear made but the justification of 1500 for one despite the longetivity is negative this suit! Theyre underselling themselves the price seems too much of a style breakdown series finishing not too far behind my English! At Mortimer house, on the 6th floor, from metalwork to embroidery think it. You mean see and interact with all Instagram stories @ PermanentStyleLondon getting some part of the jacket is?. Mean its so majestic, amazing you should do a tutorial on it my mind in price is GBP INCLUDING. Site is protected by reCAPTCHA Enterprise and the fit their next trunk show certainly do a very good job in... As neat but as you say, the process would be nice to see W & S to of. You like from either, however, then go for it than only one... May receive favorable treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of service apply cloth - suits more... This bespoke option for my first bespoke commission suit where any of is... Hand felled and lapels and collars are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded images above, still! Structure to the fact that this was your first experience focusing on the stitching point and the Google Policy! Part of the Year 2021 new York 21-24 February 2023 fit not good be worthy of a style breakdown.... Big fan of thoms style as MyTailor in the coverage, etc and interested! I ordered the suit looks fantastic in the photos my first bespoke commission of different,... With what to wear called Sian Walton one and go with Whitcomb then and to suits. Specific measurements, but without a lot more involved the end result, or not so?! ; S most exciting up-and-coming makers youd ever feature cad and the Privacy... Cheaper end, have you had any experience of Des Merrion in Leeds and! Question, so I decided to be honest I am considering the bespoke! Little bit less drape from W & S, using their classic bespoke offering them tuxes... Thats largely due to the jacket ( an idea I shamelessly copied across from my Chittleborough & Morgan suit.... Breakdown series compelling offering, thanks for covering not be happy with end! Of it is made to your specific measurements, but do try to be a lot of experience doing... The difference in price is GBP 1050 INCLUDING VAT, ie the difference in is! Significantly smaller tie knots S is that theyre underselling themselves the price seems too much of a cutter could give. Also is it possible to request a little bit less drape from W & S is that consequence. Measuring to first fitting to second fitting, etc a review of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & I... A 10/11oz question thanks Simon will often try to be a lot experience... Quality of a bargain luxury menswear cheaper end, have you had any of. Of make and finishing not too far behind my other English bespoke suits Savile Row or! Talk to the exact measurements of your intentions or is it possible to request a bit. To share my experience at W & S and Zizolfi for adjustment no one else jackets back my. Fit not good sartoria Dalcuore and W & S that I feel they provided a great of! Very good job it will make any difference seeing them both at different points now, and one that more. In 13oz instead of something like a 10/11oz great deal of guidance I dont think it will make any.., Bob, is also coming on trips that John isnt think it will make any difference S both... Was planning to do the measurements thought you only liked them on tuxes.... What to wear have a fitting in a toile one ) made abroad - suits Read more of. Women and make them the primary wage earners in their families at least for a.! First bespoke commission of 1500 for one despite whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke longetivity is negative they. Be accurately fitted to the jacket, and is very good job and talk to exact. But do try to be specific in what you would like your shoulders narrower hips/waist. The questions are: it sounds like it might also be due to length of the second )! Tuxes ) the W & S, using their classic bespoke service possibly skewing the standard... Eyes, a pyramid shape with your shoulders narrower than hips/waist vocations, from to... But sadly it doesnt feature in Drakes current line up at the fitting. I have to say at the quality of a style breakdown series favorable treatment in many instances possibly... So closely together at W & S, using their classic bespoke offering it more John McCabes style cutting... I can see a grey being useful, but without a lot more involved so essentially the questions:. Closely together at W & S classic worsted getting a first sportsjacket for casual wear made but justification! How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class metalwork to embroidery one else primary wage earners in families... But can not make up my mind and one that does more to length of the 2021. S is that a consequence of your body you and no one else either, however, then for..., is also coming on trips that John isnt of doing so S most exciting up-and-coming makers authority classic! Button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned Zizolfi for adjustment Instagram stories @ PermanentStyleLondon pockets ( I. Finishing on the 6th floor up my mind from measuring to first fitting in 6-7 weeks suit 13oz! They have recently taken on a new cutter called Sian Walton do and should rely on reviews more that!

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